How to Clean Tarnished Silver at Home

What not to use, and why

Toothpaste and baking soda are the two most commonly repeated pieces of bad advice on the internet. Both are abrasives. They do remove tarnish, because they remove a thin layer of the metal along with it, leaving a field of fine scratches that dulls the surface permanently and strips plating outright.

Ultrasonic cleaners shake pieces hard enough to loosen stones and open settings. Bleach and ammonia attack the alloy. The aluminium foil and bicarbonate soak that circulates widely is a genuine chemical reaction rather than a myth, but it is aggressive, it strips rhodium plating, and it can leave a chalky finish on detailed work.

Pieces that need extra care

Pearls are soft and vulnerable to chemicals, and the safest cleaning method also depends on how they are mounted. For our pearl pieces, avoid soaking: wipe with a very soft cloth and ask us before deeper cleaning. GIA permits occasional warm soapy cleaning for suitable pearls, but rules out ultrasonic and steam cleaners.

Rhodium plated pieces, which includes the whole Selestial collection, should be cleaned with soap and water or a polishing cloth only. Chemical silver dips are designed to dissolve tarnish from bare sterling and will take the plating with it.

When to stop and see a jeweller

Heavy black tarnish in deep engraving, a loose stone, a thin or worn band, or plating that has worn through to a visibly different colour are all jobs for a professional. Cleaning and re-plating are inexpensive next to replacing a piece.

The other reason to stop is uncertainty. If you do not know whether a stone is glued, whether a finish is oxidised on purpose, or whether a piece is plated, cleaning it aggressively is how a repairable piece becomes a ruined one. Deliberate oxidised detailing in recessed areas is a design choice, and polishing it out cannot be reversed at home.

Clean lightly tarnished sterling silver

1. Mix a warm soap bath

   Add one drop of mild dish soap to a bowl of warm, not hot, water. Avoid anything labelled antibacterial or degreasing, which tend to contain harsher agents.

2. Soak briefly

   Let the piece sit for two or three minutes. This lifts oils and product residue so you are not dragging grit across the surface when you wipe.

3. Wipe with a soft cloth

   Wipe gently with a microfibre or cotton cloth, following the shape of the piece. For chain links and detailed settings, use a soft baby toothbrush with almost no pressure.

4. Rinse in clean water

   Rinse thoroughly so no soap film is left behind. Soap residue dulls silver as surely as tarnish does.

5. Dry completely

   Dry with a clean soft cloth, including inside settings and between links. Do not let a piece air dry, since standing water leaves marks.

6. Finish with a polishing cloth

   Buff with a silver polishing cloth to lift any remaining tarnish and restore shine, then store the piece in a sealed bag.

Common questions

Does toothpaste clean silver?

It removes tarnish, but by abrading the metal. It leaves fine scratches that dull the finish permanently and will strip plating. Use soap and water or a silver polishing cloth instead.

How often should silver be cleaned?

Buff with a dry cloth after each wear, and give a piece a proper wash only when it looks dull or tarnished. Over-cleaning wears plating and polished surfaces faster than tarnish ever would.

Can badly tarnished silver be saved?

Usually yes. Tarnish sits on the surface rather than eating into the metal, so even a piece that has gone black can normally be brought back, by a jeweller if not at home.

Keep reading

Sources & further reading

These references explain general materials and care. Our product details and policies describe Selestial pieces. Ask us if a method is suitable for your finish or setting.

• Canadian Conservation Institute: silver care and tarnish removal
• GIA: pearl care and cleaning